Nepal Govt. Regd. No: 50058/064/065
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Ama Dablam Expedition with Island Peak(35 days)

The normal route to climb Ama Dablam is from its South- West ridge. Ama Dablam is a small snowcapped peak lying in the Everest region. This South – West ridge is the normal and most popular route in order to ascend Mt. Ama Dablam.

In addition, an expedition to Ama Dablam is more than just a climb. It’s a journey into the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, Ama Dablam demands the attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridgelines and super-steep faces guard the summit from all but the experienced climber.

The first ascent (via the SW ridge) of Ama Dablam was not made until the mid 60’s by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented French team in 1979. In recent years many parties have successfully climbed the mountain, with nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge route.

Ama Dablam is considered to be technically difficult and challenging peak for all the mountaineers. This unforgettable climb in the Khumbu region of Nepal starts/ends with Lukla. It involves an exciting trek up to the base camp, rock, snow and ice climbing and stunning panoramic summit views of world’s highest & famous mountains.

Named "Island Peak" in 1952 due to its striking resemblance to a island on a sea of ice, this mountain was renamed "Imje Tse" in the early 80s. Its original name is more often used, however. First climbed by a team preparing for an Everest ascent in 1953, Island Peak has an impressive, highly glaciated West Face which rises from the Lhotse Glacier. In fact, the mountain extends from the South Ridge of Lhotse Shar and is separated only by a small col. Above this gap is the ridge leading to summit. From base camp, you will ascend a steep, grassy slope and small rocky steps to high camp. It is necessary to climb a steep, exposed 300' snow and ice ramp to the summit ridge; fixed ropes will be used at this point in an otherwise non-technical snow climb. You will negotiate a final tricky snow pitch before reaching the summit. Again, stunning views of the surrounding mountains can be seen from the peak, including Nuptse, Lhotse, Cho Polu, Makalu, Ama Dablam and Baruntse.


Trip Highlights

Duration: 35 Days
Type of Trek : Camping
Max Altitude: 6300 m.
Minimum Pax: 1 +
Mode of travel: Flight
Grade: Strenous

Detail Itinerary of Mount Ama Dablam Expedition:

Day 1     Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 2     Preparation day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 3     Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla which takes approximately 30 minutes and trek to Phakding. Stay overnight at lodge in Phakding.
Early in the morning you will be driven from hotel to Kathmandu airport, after 30 minutes spectacular flight you will land to Lukla airport (2800m.).You begin your trek to Phakding (2652m.) and you walk for about two and a half to three hrs. While trekking, you head up the Dudh Koshi Valley on a well-marked trail to Phakding (2652m.)
Day 4     Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.) which takes about 5 to 5 and a half hour. This day you trek and cross the river on high suspension bridges. Beyond Monjo (2800m.) is the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park which was set up in order to protect and preserve this fragile mountain environment. You then ascend quite steeply to Namche and along the way, if the weather is clear, catch a first glimpse of Mt Everest in the distance. You can also enjoy the view of Mt. Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Konde-Ri, Tawache peak. You can also visit some of the village monasteries on the way of trekking to Namche Bazaar (3440 m.). Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.
Day 5     Rest at Namche Bazaar for acclimatization and excursion around the places.
It is an ideal place to spend a rest day for acclimatization to the high altitude before heading off towards Tyangboche. For the acclimatization you walk up to Khunde Hospital which was set up by late Sir Edmund Hillary, or a one hour walk up to the Syangboche (3800m.) where Everest View Hotel is situated above Namche for the outstanding view of Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Stay overnight at lodge in Namche Bazaar.
Day 6     Trek from Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche (3850 m.) takes almost 5 hours.
From Namche, the trail contours around the side of the valley, high above the Dudh Kosi. From here you can catch a glimpse of first really good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu including Mt Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thamserku and Kusum Kangaru. Passing by several villages and numerous tea shops, the trail descends steeply to a bridge over the river Dudh Koshi at Phunki Tenga (3250m.). The village has an excellent place for lunch and you can take a short rest before making the steep climb to Tyangboche. Tyangboche is famous for its legendary monastery, the largest in the Khumbu region. Stay overnight at lodge in Tyangboche.
Day 7     Trek from Tyangboche to Dingboche (4350m.) takes about four and a half hours to 5 hours. You gradually descend through a forest, cross the Imja Khola and climb steadily up to the village of Pangboche. This is directly opposite to Ama Dablam [6,856 m], and has exceptional views of the mountain, with the Gompa, Mani walls and scattered pine trees in the foreground. As you gradually ascend, you do find thick forests as the trail is full of thorny and juniper bushes. A further two and a half hour’s walk brings us to Dingboche. Stay overnight at lodge.
Day 8     Rest at Dingboche for acclimatization. Stay overnight at lodge.
Day 9     Trek from Dingboche (4350m.) to Chhukung (4730m.) takes about two and a half hours. The trail gradually ascends up to the Chhukung. On the way, you can see summer huts made especially for keeping the livestocks in summer time. Along this, you enjoy the beautiful mountain views in and around the valley. Stay overnight at lodge.
Day 10   Trek from Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp (5087m) takes about three hours. You trek through gradual ascent path all the way to Base Camp. On the way you can enjoy the panoramic views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Nuptse, Island Peak and many others. Stay overnight at lodge.
Day 11   Set the high camp.
Day 12   Climb the Island peak and back to base camp.
Day 13   Trek from Base camp to Pangboche. After descending along the trail to Chhukung, we continue on to Dingboche for lunch. It is then another couple of hours to the lovely village of Pangboche where we'll camp for the night.
Day 14   Rest at Pangboche.
Day 15   Trek from Pangboche to Ama Dablam Base Camp.
Lunch at Pangboche and continue trek to Base camp, Sherpa staff will set the base camp & Expedition members take relax.
Day 16 -29  Base Camp, Camp I, Camp II, Summit to the top.

You have full 17 days to make the summit on the top of Mt Ama Dablam with support of our experienced climbing Sherpa.

Base Camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views.

To Yak Camp (5400 m): Yaks carry most of your equipment for this section, which saves three to fours hours of heavy work. There is a rough track over very rocky terrain, which the yaks and we use.
To Camp I (5800 m): Your first real camp is only one and a half hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. You sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.

Camp I to Camp II (6000 m): Now, you begin your climb. This route mostly involves usually rock climbing. You follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you will be grateful of the fixed ropes in place. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.

Camp II:
Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here, it would probably land in base camp!

Camp II to Camp III (6300m):
Now, for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route, you follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.

Camp III: A cold and exposed position is the start of your summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is, however, the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.

Summit day: The initial route is to the right of the huge “Dablam” (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases slightly and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6856 m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.
Day 30   Trek from Ama Dablam Base camp to Namche. Stay overnight at lodge.
Day 31   Trek from Namche Bazaar to Phakding (2652m.) which takes about four hours. Stay overnight at lodge.

The trail descends steeply for early one and a half hours. After that, the path has small ups and downsto Phakding through Monjo. .
Day 32   Trek from Phakding to Lukla (2886m) which takes about three hours.
Your final day's trekking follows the Dudh Kosi back down to Lukla. Stay overnight at lodge.
Day 33   Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 34   Rest day in Kathmandu. Stay overnight at hotel in Kathmandu.
Day 35   Fly out from Kathmandu.